Columbia Gorge AVA: The Home of Boutique Oregon Wines

I recently visited a new-to-me wine region in northern Oregon—the Columbia Gorge AVA. I sampled some amazing wines and learned about the region from winemakers themselves on a two-day excursion to the area. The wine was impressive and the hospitality was unparalleled. My experience in the Gorge Wine region affirmed that there is much to discover in the world of Oregon wine!

Caitlin in front of Mt. Hood in the Phelps Creek Vineyard
Photo taken at Phelps Creek Vineyard, which has a stunning view of Mt. Hood in the background. Those vines must be happy to look at that view every day!

Oregon wine is growing in notoriety. The recent designation of the Willamette Valley as an EU PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) is a massive compliment the quality and value of wines being produced in that region. Having visited the Willamette Valley on several occasions, I can say with confidence that the wines coming from the Columbia Gorge AVA rival some of the best Willamette Valley wines. But what sets the Gorge apart from the Willamette Valley is the diversity of wine styles being produced in a relatively small geographical area.

The Columbia Gorge AVA was established in 2004 and is home to approximately 50 boutique wineries and a diverse collection of grape varietals.

It spans 40 miles from east to west along the Hood River and occupies land in both Oregon and Washington. The western side of the AVA, situated at the base of the Cascade mountain range, features grapes like Riesling and Pinot Noir. These grapes thrive in the cooler climate facilitated by plentiful rainfall and elevation. On the eastern side of the AVA, the landscape becomes warmer and more desert-like, lending itself well to warm-region varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. The climatic variation and the variety of grapes grown in this region is astounding!

Map of the Columbia Gorge AVA region.
Map courtesy of Gorge Wine Visitors Guide. Click the image to view the full guide online.

Before this trip, I knew very little about the Colombia Gorge AVA. The region is comprised almost exclusively of small production wineries (which I love!) that operate alongside other agricultural enterprises. Apple and pear orchards populate much of the landscape at the base of Mt. Hood just south of the Hood River. One-lane roads lead you throughout the valley, and views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams fill the skyline. The beauty of the region is complimented by the friendly, down-to-earth nature of the people who live there.

Pinot Noir vines at Phelps Creek vineyard.
This portion of the Phelps Creek Vineyard is planted with Pinot Noir vines.

My journey to Columbia Gorge AVA began from Eugene, Oregon, where I had been staying during the 2021 Wine Media Conference.

We were picked up by Martin from Martin’s Gorge Tours, a local tour company specializing in excursions in the Columbia River Gorge. Martin was so kind and knowledgeable, and shared history and fun facts about the region throughout our journey. I highly recommend booking a tour with Martin if you find yourself in the Columbia River Gorge. His tours focus on all things nature, wine, cider, beer, hiking, and more!

Martin's Gorge Tour shuttle
Our luxurious shuttle for our tour through the Gorge wine region!

Our first stop on our tour of the Gorge wine region was at nearly 6,000 feet elevation.

We were shuttled to the intersection of the Pacific Crest Trail and the Mt. Hood Visitor Center at the base of Mt. Hood. We were greeted by Bob Morus, winegrower and president of Phelps Creek Vineyard (and outstanding chef, if I may say so myself), who toured us around the Visitor Center and taught us about some of the history of the area. The Visitor Center is home to the Timberline Lodge and boasts spectacular views of Mt. Hood and the valley below it.

Hikers entering the Timberline Lodge
You’ll see tons of hikers making their way to the Timberline Lodge if you visit. The building itself has lots of historical significance. FDR’s New Deal helped fund the construction of the building, and the Lodge is now part of the Historic Hotels of America. Plus, “The Shining” was filmed here!
Hiker reloading backpack in the Lodge.
A PCT hiker reloads his backpack with food and supplies before continuing his journey. When we spoke to him he still had about a month of hiking ahead of him!
View of Mt. Hood from the Lodge.
Visitors to the Lodge can enjoy stunning views and a game of corn hole during their stay. Sadly, this is the smallest amount of snow ever recorded on Mt. Hood. While the mountain used to remain open year-round for snow sports, the lifts closed earlier this year than ever before.

After our Lodge tour, Bob hopped in the van with us, donned a mic, and offered us each a delicious—and I mean dee-licious—homemade roasted veggie sandwich with fresh cherries. All of the produce was grown just down the road in the Mt. Hood River Valley and purchased at the local farmers market. Bob chatted with us about the Mt. Hood area, his winery, and his previous career as an airline pilot as we drove to a nearby park for a tasting of Oregon sparkling wines (more on that in my next post!).

Bob distributing packed lunches for everyone
Bob Morus, along with one of his interns, distributing our lunches before our ride to our sparkling wine tasting.
Roasted veggie sandwich
The roasted veggie sandwich prepared by Bob. It was a perfect lunch on the road!

Bob Morus is a champion of the Columbia Gorge AVA.

He represents the region as one of the Directors of the Oregon Wine Board. Bob explained that boutique wineries make up the significant majority of wine business in the area, with most producing about 5,000 cases on average annually. (For comparison, many of the “big brands” you will find in your grocery store produce hundreds of thousands of cases per year). Most wineries in the Columbia Gorge AVA don’t distribute widely, so they depend on direct to consumer sales to make ends meet and bring awareness to the region.

Stave and Stone vineyard and view of Mt. Adams
Stave and Stone vineyard in Mt. Hood, Oregon. This photo is looking north toward Mt. Adams in Washington.

What I learned throughout the course of my visit is that there is a wine for everyone in the Columbia Gorge AVA. The Willamette Valley tends to be saturated with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (which I love, don’t get me wrong), but there is a much wider range of wine varietals and styles in the Gorge wine region which really makes this AVA stand out.

My upcoming posts will feature some of the people, places, wine, and food that made my experience in the Columbia Gorge unforgettable. Stay tuned to learn about the sparkling wine industry in Oregon, boutique wineries offering a wide range of outstanding quality wines, and the dinner experience that I will never forget, hosted by chef and winegrower extraordinaire Bob Morus of Phelps Creek Vineyard.

In the meantime, put the Gorge wine region on your map. This undiscovered region is only an hour’s drive from Portland and has wine for every palate.

Here are my recommendations for accommodations, transportation, and tasting room visits during your stay.

Accommodations: Best Western Plus Hood River Inn

Transportation: Martin’s Gorge Tours

Tasting Rooms:

  • Phelps Creek Vineyards: Estate grown, high quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, & Pinot Gris
  • Cathedral Ridge Winery: Home to big, bold Oregon red wines, signature blends, and delicious whites
  • Viento Wines: A pioneer of the Gorge wine region known for Pinot Noir, Riesling, and sparkling wines
  • Mt. Hood Winery: Featuring a broad selection of wines, including an award-winning sparkling wine
  • Stave & Stone Wine Estates: “Wines with Personality”, accompanied by spectacular views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams from the tasting room
  • Wy’East Vineyards: Estate-grown wines for every palate, from single varietals to blends
  • Peter Cushman Wines: Third-generation wine maker whose passion exudes from his top-quality, small production wines