Wine country is my happy place. It’s my place to relax, recharge, and completely submerse myself in the artistry of winemaking.
I was fortunate enough to make a visit to Oregon’s Willamette Valley for a wine country escape this past May. If you aren’t familiar with the Willamette Valley, it is known for producing some of the most outstanding cool-climate Pinot Noir (you can check out my blog post all about it here). It was my first time visiting the Willamette Valley, and I was thrilled to have the opportunity to evaluate these Pinots for myself.
Tucker and I boarded our only half-full flight from Burbank, California early on a Tuesday morning and began our journey to Oregon. (Half-full flight?! That’s the best way to start any vacay in my opinion!) We landed at Portland International Airport (or PDX as the locals call it), rented a car, and within an hour our landscape changed from concrete city, to forested highway, to grapevines as far as the eye could see.
Our accommodations for the week were at Youngberg Hill, a picturesque lodge rested on a hilltop with a 360-degree view the Youngberg Hill vineyard below, and the rolling hills of the Willamette Valley in the distance. The word “stunning” comes to mind, but still doesn’t seem like a big enough word to describe the tranquility and beauty of this location.
We parked our car and unloaded our bags. I hesitantly twisted the door knob of the giant wooden door to peek inside, only to be greeted enthusiastically by Becky, the innkeeper at Youngberg Hill. “Welcome!” she exclaimed, and we immediately felt at home.
We were first given a tour of the Youngberg Hill lodge. Behind every corner was a seating area, tasting room, dining area, or access to the wrap-around deck. Adorned with traditional furnishings, photographs of the vineyard, and bottles of wine, this place was clearly built with relaxation (and wine drinking) in mind. Becky ushered us up the stairs to our second-floor room, The Jura Suite. We were in heaven.
Our king suite featured panoramic views of the Willamette Valley, including Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. A sitting area with a wine-barrel table made for the perfect, private place to enjoy a glass of wine and soak in the view. For when the sun set, our room was complete with a jacuzzi tub, double rain shower, fireplace, and an oh-so-comfortable king bed. The decorative details of the room (and the view of the vineyards) were subtle reminders of our location in wine country. All in all, this suite was an oasis.
After regrouping (and shamelessly Instagram-ing the perfection that is Youngberg Hill), we made our way back downstairs to the wrap-around deck for a private wine tasting with Wayne Bailey, Youngberg Hill’s owner and winemaker. Wayne took us through a series of six wines, starting with his Pinot Gris, Rosé of Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, and finishing off with three Pinot Noirs: the Cuvée, the Natasha, and the Jordan.
It’s no secret that Youngberg Hill is known for its spectacular location and accommodations, but let me be the first to tell you that it deserves to be equally praised for its spectacular wines. Each wine we tasted was distinctly different from the next, and all of them shone in their own right. After going through the entire lineup, I can honestly say I would happily purchase bottles of every single wine we tried (and I don’t often say that after a tasting). I was blown away by the quality and artistry that Wayne managed to capture in each and every bottle.
My favorite part of the tasting with Wayne (aside from the amazing wine), was talking with him about his farming practices. Wayne subscribes to the principles of biodynamic farming, something I am particularly interested in as a wine blogger and consumer. Wayne considers himself a non-interventionalist, and does his best to tend to the vines without getting in their way. He is committed to doing the “right” thing for his vineyard versus taking the easy way out during the growing, harvesting, and winemaking process. This is the reason Youngberg Hill’s wines stand out among others.
As Wayne described his wines and the vineyard blocks they came from during our tasting, it became clear that family is the root of the operation at Youngberg Hill.
Vineyard blocks are named after Wayne’s three daughters, Natasha, Jordan, and Aspen, and Wayne works to build the Youngberg Hill reputation with his daughters’ future in mind. Wayne lovingly described the characteristics of the wines he poured for us, comparing the vivacity, complexity, and expression of individual wines to the personalities of the Bailey girls. Wayne went on to provide an analogy for his winemaking approach, comparing the process of creating wine to the experience of raising children. In Wayne’s words, bud break is conception, and you nurse the buds along until harvest. Harvest is the crescendo, the birth of the wine. From there, your role is to help the wine become the best expression of itself with minimal intervention and maximum attention, support, and guidance.
We wrapped up our tasting with Wayne and took a glass of Wayne’s so-called “quaffing wine”, the Cuvée, to the other side of the deck. We watched the sun fade away while sipping on this beautiful wine, now complete with a backbone of stories, history, perspective, and approach. That’s what wine is: a story. Wine is rich in science, artistry, and history. Every single bottle is filled with context. Experiences like our tasting with Wayne richen the context of the bottle and allow you to appreciate the trials, tribulations, and virtuous successes that go into producing such a unique combination of flavors.
We finished our first evening in the Willamette Valley with a dinner out in the town of McMinnville at Thistle, a farm-to-table Americana restaurant with fabulous food and a great drink list to go alongside. Tucker and I both enjoyed the roasted quail with morel mushrooms. Tucker sipped a local IPA with it, and I enjoyed a glass of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. With happy stomachs, we moseyed back through the winding valley roads to Youngberg Hill to turn in for the night.
The next morning, we awoke to spectacular vineyard views illuminated by the soft glow of sunrise. The faint noise of a tractor hummed in the distance, and we eagerly made our way downstairs to enjoy a cup of coffee on the wrap-around deck. It wasn’t long after pouring ourselves a cup-o-joe that we realized the individual driving the tractor was Wayne himself! He casually wove between each row of vines, cutting cover crop and inspecting the bud break.
“Good morning!” rang a happy call from the kitchen, and Becky emerged with her beaming smile to welcome us to the day. We had been told that we would receive breakfast in the morning, but had no idea what Becky had in store. The first day we were presented with fresh orange juice, a yogurt parfait with homemade granola and candied lemon (served in a wine glass of course), and lemon ricotta French toast. De-lish. Our second morning at Youngberg Hill, Becky outdid herself once again serving us homemade cranberry and black pepper muffins (sounds a little strange, but they are my new obsession), fresh fruit, and Cornish baked eggs with bacon. These two breakfasts truly went down in the books as some of the best I’ve ever had. We quickly learned that Becky was not only the innkeeper, but an outstanding chef. We left our meals each day with full stomachs, ready for another day of wine tasting.
As we experienced more of the Willamette Valley in the coming days, it was always delightful to retreat back to Youngberg Hill each evening. Our experience on the property was comfortable, luxurious, and relaxing. To find a location like Youngberg Hill is a treat, but to know that the family behind the operation is focused on pursuing their passion and doing things the right way makes the experience that much more fulfilling.
On our last day, we reluctantly checked out of our room (after extensively brainstorming all possibilities of running away from reality and staying at Youngberg Hill forever), purchased a couple bottles of wine to bring back to California (the Rosé of Pinot Noir and the Natasha, to be specific), and made a promise that we would be back again to visit again in the future.
There’s something for everyone in the Willamette Valley, whether it is leisurely wine tasting, biking through the rolling hills, hiking, dining, shopping, or visiting local farmers markets. Youngberg Hill is in the heart of it all and makes for a beautiful and immersive retreat. If you’re interested in experiencing Youngberg Hill for yourself, check out these links below. Keep scrolling for my tasting notes on each wine, too!
Click Here to learn about Lodging.
Click Here to browse the Youngberg Hill wine selection (they ship direct to consumer!).
Click Here to learn more about the vineyard, winery, and winemaking philosophy.
For those interested in purchasing Youngberg Hill wine, here are my tasting notes to steer you in the right direction:
2018 Aspen Pinot Gris
If you enjoy a clean, crisp, full-bodied white wine, the Pinot Gris is for you. It is aged in stainless steel and residual sugars are left in the wine, leading it to change slightly year-to-year. It features flavors of tropical fruit and is the perfect summer wine. This Pinot Gris is grown in the Aspen Block at Youngberg Hill, named affectionately after Wayne’s youngest daughter.
2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir
This Rosé is “made with purpose”, according to Wayne. It’s definitely not your typical acid-driven, mouth-puckering Rosé. This wine is made from Pinot Noir grapes, is pressed on the grape skins for 24-hours giving it the bright pink hue, and is fermented in neutral oak. The Rosé of Pinot Noir leaves you with a slight hint of oak on the nose and a soft buttery texture as you sip. This Rosé is great for pairing with food or enjoying on its own. (This was one of the bottles we purchased to share with friends!)
2016 Chardonnay
Sourced from the Aspen Block, this Chardonnay is a standout wine in the Youngberg Hill lineup. It features a light oak flavor (due to fermentation in ½ neutral and ½ 1-use barrel oak) giving it a signature Chardonnay flavor, but balances out with the perfect amount of acidity and slightly herbal quality. This wine is what many other Chardonnays try to be, but few achieve. Pull this wine out at your next seafood dinner and you won’t be disappointed.
2016 Cuvée Pinot Noir
In Wayne’s words, this is his “quaffing” wine: something you can enjoy without thinking about; something you can pair with food, or sip all on its own. It’s an all-around great wine, blended from Pinot Noir Dijon 777 clone grapes at three separate vineyards. It features an aroma of ripe strawberry and a beautiful dark plum color. The Cuvée’s soft tannins and light acidity make it a perfect pairing for any meal or occasion. It’s a crowd pleaser!
2015 Natasha Pinot Noir
The Natasha Block of Pinot Noir, named once again after one of Wayne’s daughters, is celebrating its 30th birthday with this bottle of 2015 Pinot Noir. The age of the vines shows at first sip, featuring the most body, structure, and tannin than any of the other wines in the lineup. On the nose you smell ripe berry and chocolate, making it a luxurious choice of wine. And don’t be fooled by the Pinot Noir varietal, this wine could easily hold up to a steak. (This was one of the bottles I flew home with me!)
2015 Jordan Pinot Noir
Sourced from vines planted almost 30-years ago, the Jordan Pinot Noir (named, again, after one of Wayne’s daughters) is all about terroir. The grapes from the Jordan Block of the vineyard have the exact same chemical structure as the grapes from the Natasha Block. However, the wines are completely different. An average two-degree cooler temperature in the Jordan Block of the vineyard, plus grapes left on the vine for approximately 1-2 weeks longer than those in the Natasha Block, creates a more refined tannin structure in the Jordan Pinot Noir. The Jordan also features slightly higher acidity and more earthy flavors. A true aficionado will enjoy putting the Natasha and the Jordan side-by-side for comparison to learn about the intricacies of each wine.
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Great article!
Thanks for reading!